Inside Out Design

During the summer, it is too hot to want to do much of anything outdoors, which is the perfect time to make your home look beautiful inside. You could take up project like creating a mosaic tile backsplash for your kitchen, or just move some furniture around to get a brand new feel in your home. But, now, as the summer months slip lazily into fall, you can take advantage of any outdoor space that you might have overlooked during the summer.

Outdoor arrangements like this are possible with modern materials.

Outdoor arrangements like this are possible with modern materials.

A lot of people love to grill in the summer and it is a great time to do it! The trouble is, do you really want to eat a hot meal outside when it is 100 degrees and sunny? You don’t have that same trouble when you are in the fall. Grilling in the fall gives you the best of all worlds, it is still warm enough to comfortably be outside but not so hot that you are begging to turn away from the flames. The question is, is your patio or deck or other outdoor space ready for outdoor dining, entertaining, and just general relaxing? Here are a few thing to think about as you get whatever space you have prepared for an autumnal adventure.

Interior design used to be restricted to the interior. This was because many materials simply could not stand up to unpleasant weather. So, unless you were willing to drag your patterned sofa and stained glass installation inside every evening and back out every morning, you just stuck with rod iron furniture or heavily weather-proofed wood. But now, thanks to innovations in fabrics and other materials, many items that used to be indoor only can be taken outside without a care for their wellbeing. This means that you can have the same ultra-modern looking glass coffee table outdoors that you have in your living room. So, shop around for pieces you love and then search for an outdoor friendly version.

Another tip is to spend a little extra on your outdoor furniture. Because it is exposed to the elements, outdoor furniture shows its true value much more quickly than the same quality piece would inside. Fraying, staining, rotting, and even breaking will occur faster outdoors if the piece is not of sufficient quality. Sure, it will be a little more upfront, but it will be worth it as a good piece of outdoor furniture can last for 25 years or more!

Light up the grill, put some logs in the fire pit and relax in your new-found living room outside! The fall is the perfect time for it and nothing is stopping you now from doing it in style!

Danny Yehia walks you through how to apply a mosaic tile backsplash in your kitchen.

How to Install a Mosaic Tile Backsplash

We spend a lot of time in our kitchens. It is not only where we prepare meals, it is also where we snack, have our morning coffee, and even just have a relaxing chat with a friend. So why don’t we spend some time making it look great?

Here is your kitchen before adding a tile backsplash. Dull and uninspiring...

Here is your kitchen before adding a tile backsplash. Dull and uninspiring…

The simple answer for some people is because it is too hard. They don’t know how to make a kitchen that looks outdated leap into the current century. Well, don’t be discouraged anymore! A simple update that will make any kitchen look terrific is adding a glass tile backsplash. And it is easy to do!

Step One: Find your backsplash

Most hardware stores have tons of options to choose from so take stock of the current color scheme of your kitchen and find something that you think would fit well. The multi-color options that provide a subtle pattern are especially attractive.

Step Two: Prep your wall

To really make the backsplash look seamless, you will need to remove appliances and install a temporary ledger. Make sure to use a level to keep everything straight.

Choose a focal point, usually at the center of your oven/range, and mark it with a piece of tape. This will serve as the starting point for the adhesion of your backsplash.

Next, line up the tiles on the wall in order to identify where you will need to make your cuts. Follow the age-old adage, “measure twice and cut once” to avoid unnecessary cuts. You can always press the tiles slightly together or stretch them slightly to make the tiles fit more snugly in your desired section.

Step Three: Apply the Thinset

Mix thinset in a easy to hold container and, beginning at the center point, spread the thinset across the surface you will tile. Try to use the edge of your trowel to achieve a thickness of about ¼ in. The thicker you go, the more there will be to press through the spaces in the tiles; the thinner your thinset layer, the more risk there is that the tiles will not set.

Step Four: Placing Your Tiles

Place your tile sheets into the thinset layer and lightly press them to ensure a strong bond. You can also use a flat hard-cover book or a piece of wood placed flat over the tiles and hit it lightly with a hammer in order to get the tiles to adhere completely.

Step Five: The Grand Finale

Danny Yehia walks you through how to apply a mosaic tile backsplash in your kitchen.

And here is your finished kitchen. Gorgeous! The mosaic tile backsplash truly brings it to life.

Peel the paper off the tiles by first wetting the paper and then peeling carefully from one of the corners. The tiles could be a little dirty so take a wet cloth and gently clean them. Then, apply your grout and wait for everything to set. Replace any appliances you removed and step back and admire your beautiful new kitchen!


Installing windows is a lengthy process but is well worth it. It'll add value to your house, make it look better and offer more insulation.

Replacing Windows: Step-By-Step Guide

If you’re living in an older house, there will come a time when you have to replace the windows. The wood in an older house begins to warp, affecting not only how the windows look and operate but also the insulation that they provide. This article will walk you through all of the steps necessary to replace those windows correctly the first time (without having to hire a contractor).

For this guide, I am assuming that your window frames are solid; if this is the case, you simply need to insert replacement units. To replace window frames, please check back for further instructions.

There are three types of replacement windows: insert replacements, sash kits and full-frame units. We’re going to be working with an insert replacement.

Step 1: Measure

Before going any further into the process, make sure that you measure out the windows for your replacements. To start, measure the inside width of the old window frame (jamb to jamb). You should do this in three places: the top, the middle and the bottom. If the measurements are different, write down whichever is the smallest out of the three.

After that, measure the height of the frame. Start from the top of the sill to the underside of the head jamb. Again, do this in three places – left, center and right – and record the smallest measurement.

Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals. If there is a difference of more than 1/4 of an inch, you’re going to need to make adjustments to the frame.

Use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill. Record this as well.

Installing windows is a lengthy process but is well worth it. It'll add value to your house, make it look better and offer more insulation.

Installing windows is a lengthy process but is well worth it. It’ll add value to your house, make it look better and offer more insulation.


Step 2: Removing the Sash and Jamb Liners

Removing the old sash from the window frame requires either prying it off or unscrewing t he interior wooden stops. Start with the bottom sash; after the bottom is removed, take out the parting beads so that the upper sash is free. Press on the jamb liners and pull the top sash forward to free it.

Next, take off the jamb liners. Use a flat bar to pry them free and remove any remaining wooden stops from the frame.

Step 3: Getting Your Frame Prepared

There’s going to be a mess left of old paint and loose wood. Scrape that off and then patch any holes or cracks with wood putty. Sand the jambs smooth so that you have a clean finish. Finish it up with some primer and paint.

Check if there are original sash weights in place – if so, remove them and insulate behind the frame. You need to unscrew the access panel on each side to pull the weights out.

Step 4: Insulation

Polyurethan foam is great for windows. It’s much more effective at blocking air than fiberglass foam. It’s important, however, to only use low-pressure that expands very minimally. Make sure that the foam is produced solely for windows and doors. Drill holes into the jamb, one at each end and one in the middle, on all four sides.

Now for the fun part… shoot the foam into each hole until it begins to ooze out. Don’t forget to fill in the sash-weight pockets that we emptied. Let the foam sit for at least 6 hours so that it can harden; then, break off the excess foam so that you have a flush surface.

Step 5: Caulking and Installing the Window

We’re about to install the window. First, however, we want to caulk the exposed inner face. Apply it to the blind stops on the top and sides of the frame, as well as beads along the window sill.

Finally, it’s time to install the window. You want to be working from the inside of the room, placing the bottom onto the sill and tipping it forward into the opening. Press the window forward, making sure it is tight against the exterior casings or blind stops.

Step 6: Screw It In and Inserting Shims

Have someone hold the window in place. Using a 2-inch screw, loosely attach the upper side jamb and the framing. Do not tighten it too much – it should be just enough to hold the frame in place.

Grab some shims and insert accordingly under the sill and behind the side jambs. You want to make sure that the window is in the center of the space. Measuring diagonally, these measurements should be the same. Take a utility knife and trim the excess.

Step 7: More Caulking, More Priming, More Painting

Now, operate from the outside of the window. Measure gaps in the frame and casing. If any gaps are less than 1/4 of an inch, fill them with the elastomeric caulk. Use a rubber backer rod for anything larger than 1/4 of an inch. Next, head back inside and fill gaps with the expanding foam. Install your window stops, prime and paint.

Step 8: Sit Back and Enjoy

You worked hard. Take some time to relax. Stare out the window.


Interior Lighting Guidelines – Each Room is Different

When it comes to interior lighting, you need to treat each room differently. There are two guidelines that every interior designer should follow: mixing light sources at different levels, and providing the appropriate amount of light given the tasks that you’ll be preforming in that space. You need different levels of lighting for getting dressed in your bedroom than you do for cooking in the kitchen.


Overhead lighting is best for the kitchen. Since your primary task is cooking or preparing food, you want the lights overhead so that you are not casting shadows on the food while it’s being prepared. It’s a good idea to invest in a dimmer so that you can turn it up when you’re cooking, or keep it low when you’re just grabbing a late-night snack. You also, however, want to illuminate work surfaces by using a sturdy table lamp and under-cabinet lights.

Dining Room

You always want to make sure that the table is the brightest spot in the room. It draws people towards the food and makes them feel comfortable sitting around the table. This is why chandeliers are popular in dining rooms – it’s not just to make them look extravagant, but also to illuminate the table as best as possible. You want to use indirect lighting to address the rest of the room. Have light bouncing off of the walls, illuminating a china closet, etc.

Living Room

When addressing the living room, it’s smart to illuminate three of the four corners. Don’t just throw light into a corner, however; focus at least one of those lights on an object. This could be a work of art, a plant or anything else you want to draw attention to. Within the room, using a combination of table and floor lamps will provide you with light that is suitable for reading on the couches. Have some lamps directing light upwards, others directing it downwards. Also, putting downward-glowing lamps on a three-way switch will allow you to increase the light for reading.


A bedroom should be thought of as the place where you feel most comfortable. Your bedroom should give off a warm, snug feeling. This is achieved by placing lamps around the bed that do not point directly at it. Also, make sure that you angle recessed fixtures towards the dressing area – you do not want these fixtures pointing at the bed. It’s ideal to also have a small lamp that mimics candlelight. Something about a candle just gives off a cozy feeling.


You always want sconces located around the mirror. Whether you’re shaving or applying makeup, you want to make sure that you have a combination of sidelights and overhead lights to fill in any shadows that are on your face. The rest of the room should be illuminated as well (some of us like to read while on the toilet). If you’re bathroom is larger, it’s smart to have a light directly over the shower.

5 New Patterns Added to NuMetal Collection

5 New Patterns Added to NuMetal Collection

Five new patterns have been added to ATI’s NuMetal collection and are available for immediate fulfillment.

Your regional sales representative can assist in providing additional details, as well as review specifications and provide samples specific to any pending projects you may have. Unsure of the best contact person? Call us at 866-755-4527 and we’ll be happy to point you in the right direction.

If you happen to have a NuMetal Architectural Display Board, you may want to check out a brief video previewing the recent changes.

Updates for the NuMetal Display Board are 100% free until June 30, 2014, so act today for timely fulfillment.*

For immediate distributor support, or to request the display board/chip chain updates,
please click on the link below to fill out the contact form.


LAX Flies First Class with GlasPro

April 2014

 LAX Flies First Class with GlasPro

Fabrication Excellence at New International Terminal

Los Angeles, CA

At over 60,000 total square feet, the interior glass elements of the Los Angeles International Airport Terminal represent a significant achievement in both quantity and quality of fabrication for GlasPro. Over-sized lites in excess of 76” x 145” in coordination with a stringent production and delivery schedule made this such an amazing collaborative achievement.

This challenging undertaking demanded a high level of technical aptitude and logistical innovation. More than 530 panels that were used as handrails, jumbo partitions and storefronts required immaculate flat-polishing with many calling for extensive fabrication of specialized cut-outs and holes. Movement and delivery of this much glass was accomplished via specialized packing procedures and the coordination of off-hour deliveries.

GlasPro was able to meet each challenge the LAX International Terminal project presented with unique and beautiful solutions. The size and scale of this job is yet another example of the fabrication excellence we have come to expect from GlasPro.

Click here for downloadable images and publicity materials for this press release

For more information about GlasPro and this press release, please contact:

Marc Bennett

posted Danny Yehia